Pattern #10 - Trinity River

I have a tummy.  Can I wear this design?

Yes - because the smooth yoke doesn't add fullness around your waist and tummy. Pick a soft fabric with nice drape: challis, rayon, soft washed cottons (with nice drape), crepe (if it isn't poly, poly when gathered at the yoke will stand out and not hang close to the body), jersey knits (jersey is a tight knit with drape and not a lot of stretch). Also, you can substitute the gathers for small pleats.  These will hang a little closer to the body.  When doing your "on the body" fitting before sewing up the side seams, you can also ease out some of the fullness.

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Pattern #3 - Diamond Head

I made this pattern and there was something wrong with the length of the right leg. When I tied them, there was also a funny gap in the front . . . help!

When you fold the right side over to tie on the left side, you need to roll the right tie up then tie it.  This puts the drape in the front. That rolling takes up the extra fabric that was causing the gap.  Also, this brings the hem up so the legs hang more even.

Pattern #3 - Diamond Head

I have a large tummy and when I made this pattern it didn't fold over and tie as far on the left side as it looked like it did in the picture.  What did I do?

Because you have more weight in the front than the back, when making sizing adjustments increase side seams as needed, but also add more width to the right front half that folds over.  Do this by cutting the pattern piece for the right front leg down the middle at the fold line mark. Spread the 2 pieces apart as much as needed to give you the needed extra inches so when you fold this leg over to tie, it goes over almost to the left hip.

Pattern #14 - Audubon

A lot of you are still concerned about where the tuck should be. Should it be at the shoulder or further down?  The cover drawing looks like it is at the shoulder.  The pattern has it marked further down. Which is right?

They are both right. That tuck by the collar band is there to help direct the fold of the fabric.  It also adds a little softness and detailing. It should direct the fabric fold from the collar band toward the sleeve and underarm.  Where it is placed will depend on the drape of the fabric and your figure (bust).  Or you can leave it out altogether. You get to decide.

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Pattern #20 - Woodstock

We have received a number of questions regarding the facing to the skirt in this pattern.  In the first printings the facing was a small triangle that just covered the bottom front corner. This was later updated to include a larger area.

The facing was added to cover the wrong side of the fabric so when the skirt is worn the wrong side and the raw seams don't show. You can cut a facing for this front any size you need or if your fabric is attractive on both sides, then an edge hem may be all you need.

Pattern #20 - Woodstock

I am still concerned that I can't add enough inches to this skirt to fit my ample waist.

Look at the pattern sizing instructions. You will need to cut pattern piece 6A wider from the waist down to the hem. Or, you can add an extra piece to pattern piece 6A from the waist down to the hem. Also, you can add another piece to the other side from the waist to the hem. Sew this to the ends of pattern pieces 10, 11 and 12.

Pattern #20 - Woodstock

My friend made this skirt and it looked a little short in the front for her. I am 6" taller than here.  What do I need to do so it is still long enough for me?

Pattern #21 - Niagara Falls

I got an e-mail regarding trouble attaching the back collar section so it lines up nicely with the shoulder seams.  You may be having the same trouble.

The purpose of making the collar the way I did was to cover the ray seams at the shoulders.  Baste the collar to the back of the jacket and pin or baste the jacket shoulders together.  Fold collar in half and see if the front neck lines up nicely with the folded back collar. Is there a curve at the shoulder seam that doesn't look right? If so, then take out the shoulder seams.  Fold front facing to the right side of jacket fabric and re-sew the front facing at the neck taking out the curve (making seam more straight up toward shoulder).  Press facing back to wrong side. Sew front to back of jacket at shoulders. You may find when you fold the collar, so it lines up with the front, that it is not folding exactly in half.  This is OK. Trim collar if needed.  Tuck under the collars raw edges and finish sewing to jacket neck.

If you think the back curve is too long for your figure or the front isn't long enough to cover your tummy, remember you can re-draw this hem line.  The front length can be extended down a coup of inches and the back can be shortened.

Because this little lady was so small and had good posture, she didn't have this curve.  The shoulder seam was hanging even from front and back.  The easiest way to correct the uneven hem would be to trim the hem. A more correct way would be to take out the shoulder seam and raise the back up, taking out this extra fabric and then re-sewing.

This same lady was concerned about cutting the gusset after doing her sizing adjustments.

Pin the front and back of the blouse at shoulders before cutting the gusset and try on and check the gusset cut line guide. Re-draw this line if needed for a better fit for your body.  The gusset placement should angle from side seam up to your armpit. A gusset allows extra fabric where needed when you lift your arm.

You should not have a problem altering this pattern for your height. Take the extra inches off at the waist. Trim some off before cutting then the rest off after you have the swirls sewn together.  You will do an “on the body” fitting, then do the final trimming. After trimming at the waist – the waist will be a little larger than the original 44” (8 swirls).  I don’t know what your hip measurement is, but now the skirt should fit about right.  The waist (elastic) of the skirt should slide over your hips.  You can also trim a little more off the hem if needed.  This is a pretty skirt and I lpe you enjoy it.